This tutorial is based on one by Alli, and is published on the Tazzone so to get her tutorial and instructions, you can visit the page where it is posted.
My tutorial gives slightly different methods (a little simpler for my beginners) and the results are not exactly the same, but the original idea from the tutorial on the Tazzone was the starting point for this one.
Open an image of a glass, or window or bottle. If you don’t have one, you can get one from the morguefile to use for this. There are dozens of different glass images available for free use on morgueFile, so feel free to search their image archives for something else if you’d rather use a different style.
Open your image and duplicate the background layer.
Now select a custom shape from the photoshop shapes tools. The custom shape tool can be found in the tool palette and is designated by a little ‘blob’ shape. If your tool palette doesn’t show this shape, you can find it under the rectangle shape; hold down the small black arrow next to the rectangle shape and the tool box with open with other options.
I use white as the shape colour and a filled shape style. On the shape layer, you may have a layer style effect for “stroke” – turn this off, we don’t want the outline.
The next step will be to “rasterize” the shape layer. Right click on the shape layer and select “rasterize layer”. This turns the shape layer into a normal transparent layer above the background.
Now set the blending method to soft light for this layer. The next step is to add a bevel to the shape. Select a bevel style – here I used outer bevel and set the contour style to “cove deep”. I also reduced the white of the highlight mode on the bevel adjustments to 0% and the shadow mode to 58%.
When you are happy with the shape layer, drag the background copy over the shape layer. For the dark blue bottles, I set the blend mode of the shape layer to “darken” and adjusted the opacity to 70%. You can select your own opacity level to suit your image and taste. Once you’ve got a look that pleases you, flatten the layers and save your image.
The final results don’t look too bad!
Here is a lighter glass image created using the same steps listed above – a glass of beer with the opacity of the final blending layer set to an opacity of 80%.
An even simpler method of applying effects to plain glass uses the “glass on glass” overlay. This is pretty simple, but you need a few things to use it. Namely, you’ll need a variety of images of frosted glass types, so be on the lookout for windows with different glasses in the them, and photograph the glass when you run across some.
One of my hobbies is stained glass, and I have a crate full of different glass types. Glue-chip is one of the most useful glasses for using as an overlay – basically, it’s a frosted textured glass, so it can be used for texture overlays. If you aren’t sure what glue-chip is, it looks like the one you see here. Glue-chip comes with somewhat less design (single) and with more heavily frosted design (double glue-chip) – the sample used here is a double glue-chip.
Using a photo of a sheet of glue-chip glass, I laid it over the beer glass above and used the soft light method to blend it with the beer glass layer.
That’s it folks – a pretty simple one this time, but it can give your glasses (or any other glass product like windows, bowls, even a photo of cabinet doors with glass) some pretty interesting effects.